Glossary of Shirt Making Terms

Two ply fabrics is the actual spin of the threads we use. Each individual yarn of the warp & weft is composed of double ply thread. This is a vital quality making the fabric so strong that it cannot be ripped by hand.

Fusing means that the collar and cuffs are heated by a special heat transfer presser. The collar and cuffs are thereby given a very distinctive look. This allows you to maintain an easy option when laundering your shirts.

Bespoke: This is a term used to refer to upscale customization reserved for the prestigious clientele.

Made to measure refers to customization where the general measurements, such as neck and waist size, are taken but does not encompass specific detail, (e.g. sloped right or left shoulder or different cuff sizes). The shirt is therefore not as precise as a custom made shirt.

Custom made is where each individual area of the shirt is measured with precise detail. An individual pattern is designed based on those measurements.

Collar stays are the plastic or bone stiffeners inserted in a slit under the collar to keep it firm.

Mother of Pearl buttons are the special buttons used on our higher end shirts. They are actually made from natural pearl and will never crack during cleaning. They give the shirt its finishing touch.

Sea Island refers to staples of cotton grown on a small bushy tree grown on islands of the Caribbean off the Atlantic coast of south United States; these trees yield cotton with unusually long silky fibers. The result creates a very soft feeling shirt.

Fabric count is the number of threads per square inch. The higher the thread count the finer the cotton will be. The numbers range from 80s to 200s count.

Center Placket is the pleat that runs down the front of the shirt. The width varies between styles of shirts. The button holes are cut on this placket. Some sport shirts are made without the placket showing.

Chambray describes a lightweight fabric woven with white threads across a colored warp.

End on End is similar to chambray but used in heavier broadcloth. The result is a mixture of white weave.

Stitches per inch are one of the most outspoken details of an exclusive shirtmaker. The stitches on the collar and cuff are so small and close together, you can barely see them.

Pique is the name of a very formal fabric used for the bosom of a tuxedo shirt. It has a special designed curve and displays an exquisite sharp look. The collar and cuff usually match the pique fabric as well.

Fly fronts are still used very much on distinguished looking business shirts. The buttons are not exposed but are rather hidden beneath a neat cover made from the shirting material.

Studs to show is the term used to refer to the display of your studs during formal evenings. The preference to display two, three, of four studs is at the customer's discretion.

Shank buttons put the finishing touch on an elegant formal tuxedo bosom. For those who wish not to wear studs, we offer very unique pearl shank buttons to substitute for the studs.

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